Last Updated 04/17/07

Mallory Unilite Distributor Installation

Background

I researched electronic ignitions and distributors and solicited input from members of the DeTomaso Forum, and had settled on an MSD ready to run distributor. However, I then received an email from another club member offering me his nearly new Mallory Unilite distributor from Dennis Quella at Pantera Performance Center in Castle Rock Colorado. The curve has been modified to compliment the ZF gearing and performance of a relatively stock Pantera. And, the price was a lot more attractive than a new MSD unit.

Distributor Installation

Remove the Firewall

Note that this was a "learn as I go" process, because I couldn't find any instructions online or in my Pantera service guides on Firewall Removal.

1. Remove shoulder-belt bolts on both the driver and passenger sides. Use a 17mm socket.

2. Remove the 4 Philips screws at the base of the firewall. There are two on each side located behind the seats on either side at the bottom of the firewall.

3. Lift the firewall cover up to free it from the top of the unibody structure.

4. If you lift it up and pull it out through the drivers side door like I did, the nuts on the back of the cover will scratch the soundproofing material on the firewall.

5. Remove the 9 retaining screws that secure the hump to the firewall.

Remove the Stock Distributor

1. Remove air cleaner to provide easy access to the distributor.

2. Remove the distributor cap.

3. Mark position of the rotor tip on the top of the distributor body and note the position of distributor body to the engine. This will help you line up the new distributor for installation in the same position.

Note: The marks in the picture above are not visible on the new distributor and are barely visible on the old one, however the arrows reference their general location on the old distributor.

4. Remove distributor hold down bolt with a 1/2” box wrench.

5. Carefully lift the distributor straight up, being careful not to let the housing rotate as you lift it. Note the movement of the rotor and mark the distributor body at the location where the rotor points after disengaging from the camshaft drive gear.

6. Transfer alignment marks to the new distributor body.

7. Coat camshaft gear with assembly lube.

8. Position new distributor above mounting location and lower into engine block, paying careful attention that the rotor starts in the final position of the old distributor and ends up in the initial position of the old distributor. Expect difficulty getting the oil pump shaft to line up with and engage the distributor shaft. Keep trying…

9. Then, when the distributor doesn’t line up with the oil pump driveshaft, say a prayer, and keep trying…

10. When that doesn’t work, call a fellow club member for additional ideas.

11. Remove the partially installed new distributor and examine the mounting hole to make certain nothing is obstructing the shaft. Use a dental mirror and strong flashlight. I found that the angle of the oil pump driveshaft shaft in the block caused it to lean to one side of the opening, and I speculated that it wasn't feeding into the bottom of the distributor shaft. So, I jacked the car up on one side to get the shaft vertical so it would stay centered in the opening to receive the distributor. This was probably unnecessary, but by this point I was willing to try anything I thought might help.

12. Insert a deep 5/16 ¼” drive socket on an extension and turn the oil pump shaft slightly. This may have solved the problem in the first place without jacking the car.

13. Try re-installing the new distributor. If it doesn’t seat, return to step 12 and rotate the oil pump driveshaft ever so slightly and try again until the distributor seats properly in the block.

14. Replace the distributor hold down clamp and "finger-tighten" the bolt until you re-set the engine timing.

CAUTION: Operating the engine with the interior cover removed is very dangerous. Use extreme caution! Getting clothing or limbs caught in the belts and pulleys can cause serious injury or death. BE CAREFUL!

Replace the Coil

I elected to replace the stock coil with an “MSD Blaster 2” coil to ensure the integrity of the ignition system. The Mallory Unilite distributor required a Ballast Resistor, so I purchased an MSD coil kit that included the necessary ballast resistor.

Removing the old coil was extremely difficult. The coil mounting strap was mounted to the metal mounting panel inside the engine compartment against the front firewall on the passenger side. However, there was a bolt driven from the back of the mounting panel which interfered with my ability to get a wrench or socket on the retaining screw to loosen the clamp on the old coil. I had to remove the entire coil mounting bracket, then remove the coil wires from the coil.

There was very little room to mount the Ballast Resistor as well. The mounting panel for the coil, stock resistor and voltage regulator had no room to spare. So I fabricated a bracket on which to mount the new ballast resistor. The bracket is made out of a Simpson Strong-Tie angle bracket from Home Depot. I hammered it flat, determined where the resistor needed to mount in order to clear the coil, then drilled and riveted the ballast resistor to the new bracket. The ballast resistor is secured by the coil mounting bracket, which I repainted to clean up it's appearance - not that anyone will ever see it. Below are pictures of the bracket fabrication and the completed installation. I apologize for the poor quality of the pictures.

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