Ignition Switch Rebuild

Sounds like your ignition switch may be malfunctioning. Have you removed the electrical portion of the switch and rebuilt it? I think that would be a good place to start. See the first half of this article for details:
http://www.panteraplace.com/page125.htm

Here's a picture of the inside of my switch before being rebuilt, and ultimately replaced. Notice how scorched the contacts are. However, they don't need to be re-plated as suggested in the article above. The disc is solid copper and can be polished.

The new ignition switch from Graham Pantera comes with instructions on how to drill, remove the old key set and install the new one. When I ordered mine in early 2006, instructions were not included.

When you prepare to lubricate your lock with the graphite, you may wish to spray some 'brake cleaner' into the lock barrel first to remove the WD-40. Graphite is a dry lubricant and will be more effective if not gummed up residual WD-40 in there already.

Also, you will find that the bolts that secure the ignition switch to the steering column have had their heads sheared off, making removal another challenge. They were designed to do this when they reached proper torque. Some report using a dremel tool to slot them and remove with a screw driver. Others have used drills and easy outs, and still others have managed to turn them with a punch. All this strikes me as a lot of additional work with the potential for more frustration.

It's NOT NECESSARY to remove the ignition switch from the steering column to replace the lock tumbler. I removed the entire steering column when I replaced my ignition lock tumbler earlier this year. Undo the 4 bolts that secure the column to the underside of the dash, remove the turn signal switch (or unplug it's electrical connection), and slide the entire unit straight back and it will come right out. I wrapped the end in a plastic bag with a zip tie to keep the shaft clean and avoid smearing grease all over the wife's kitchen counter as I did the tumbler replacement according to the instructions on Pantera Place.

New Electrical Switch for Ignition

The ignition switch (and I believe the entire steering column) is shared with the 71-74 Capri. I purchased a new ignition switch (the electrical contacts portion) from http://www.teamblitz.com and expect they could provide the steering lock pieces you need as well.

I purchased a new electrical switch for my ignition switch from Team Blitz Capri at a cost of $145, plus $10 s/h from Blitz. I think they now want $165 + s/h for the same part.

The first thing you might try is to take your old one apart to determine if the spring broke or merely popped out of alignment and is no longer doing its job. But, that's a real PITA!

I finally got around to installing the new switch last night. Below is a pic of the old switch and the new switch. I had to cut the connector off the new switch and strip the ends of the wires to mount it to the Pantera's ignition terminal block.

FWIW, I wasn't having a problem with the cylinder not popping back out. My problem earlier this year was smoke rising from the dash - never a good sign. I traced it to the ignition switch. So, I replaced the lock tumbler which did nothing for the Lucas smoke feature, then realized the smoke was coming from the insulation on the wire on the back of the electrical switch component (pictured above).

The next step was to rebuild the electrical component according to the instructions at Pantera Place (http://www.panteraplace.com/page125.htm). I did this and life was good... for a few months.

Then, the "run" position on my switch started to not always run. There was a dead spot. And, over the next couple months, the dead spot seemed to increase in size and the "sweet spot" where the engine would continue to get juice became more and more elusive. My starting routine was to click the switch into the "run" position and wiggle it around until I heard the fans come on, pump the gas once, then turn the key to "start" and step on the gas once more as the engine popped to life. Then, I would release the key back to the "run" position and frantically try to find that "sweet spot" again before the engine died. Sometimes I hit it just right and no one could tell anything was amiss, but most of the time it would take 2-3 tries before I could keep it running. And once when I was going down the freeway I went over an expansion joint which was enough to cause the key to slip out of the sweet spot and the engine died - good thing traffic didn't come to a sudden stop because a non running engine means no power brakes. Anyway, I quickly reached for the key, moved it around in the "run" area, and brought her back to life (I never pushed in the clutch).

Anyway, to answer your question, the electrical switch does not play a role in popping the lock cylinder back out. That function occurs within the lock cylinder or within the pot metal switch housing. Actually, it all takes place within the lock tumbler.

To identify the ACC buss from the RUN buss, check out SOBill's wiring diagrams on Pantera place: http://www.panteraplace.com/page107.htm

There's a diagram for the "Ignition Switch Accessories Bus" as well as downloadable full-sized wiring diagrams for the different Pantera models which will identify the various wires coming out of the ignition switch. Here's what it looks like for the late pre-L.

picture of the ignition switch connections in order to see the color of the differents electric wires.

The ignition switch wires connect to a terminal block which you may wish to replace too. The factory terminal block has screws that drive directly into the stranded wires. Many of the wire strands break resulting in resistance, heat, and a potential fire hazard. See the pics below for a common example of a terminal block that has begun to melt as a result. I replaced my block with one that has a clamp that secures the wires, so no wires get broken by driving a screw into them.

These upgraded terminal blocks are available from Bill Taylor (SOBill@aol.com). I don't know what he charges for them. He included mine with the rebuild of my turn signal switch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190015853482&indexURL=0#ebayphotohosting

COMPLETE FORD IGNITION SWITCH WHICH IS A DIRECT BOLT IN AND MECHANICALLY CORRECT REPLACEMENT FOR ALL ‘71 - ‘74 DE TOMASO PANTERAS AND THE MARK 1 CAPRI.

IMPORTANT -- PLEASE NOTE: THIS SWITCH IS SOURCED FROM A EUROPEAN FORD PRODUCT AND THEREFORE DOES --- NOT --- HAVE THE AUXILLARY ELECTRICAL CONTACT ADDED FOR THE KEY WARNING BUZZER IN THE USA SPEC PANTERAS. IF YOU STILL ARE USING AND DESIRE TO RETAIN THIS BUZZER FUNCTION, DO NOT PURCHASE THIS SWITCH.

OTHER THAN THE BUZZER CONTACT, THIS SWITCH IS AN --- EXACT --- DUPLICATE OF THE ORIGINAL PANTERA SWITCH. THE ORIGINAL BREAK-AWAY MOUNTING BOLTS WERE SLOTTED WHEN THE SWITCH WAS REMOVED AND ARE INCLUDED. TWO GENUINE KEYS, AND THE KEY TAG, ARE INCLUDED. THESE ARE THE ORIGINAL EARLY KEYS WITHOUT THE RUBBER HEAD AND ARE MARKED ‘FORD’ ON ONE SIDE, ‘KOLB’ ON THE OTHER. THE CHROME KEY BEZEL IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION WITH NO SCRATCHES OR WEAR. THE SWITCH STILL FUNCTIONS CORRECTLY, SPRINGING BACK FROM START AND LOCKING OUT FROM ANOTHER START ATTEMPT WITHOUT FIRST RETURNING TO OFF. WIRING HAS BEEN REMOVED WITH THE BRASS TERMINALS CLEANED AND READY FOR THE SOLDERING OF NEW WIRES.

THE ORIGINAL PANTERA SWITCH WAS PART NUMBER 70EB-3675-B1D

THIS GENUINE FORD SWITCH HAS A PART NUMBER OF 70EB-3675-A1D

THIS SWITCH IS INCREASINGLY HARD TO LOCATE AND THIS AUCTION CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH A NO-PROBLEMS REPLACEMENT FOR YOUR CURRENT TROUBLESOME SWITCH, OR JUST BE PUT AWAY FOR A RAINY DAY.

I AM A PANTERA OWNER, MEMBER OF P.I. AND POCA (PCNC CHAPTER) AND GUARANTEE YOU WILL BE HAPPY WITH THIS SWITCH OR I WILL CHEERFULLY REFUND YOUR PURCHASE PRICE.

MORE PHOTOS ARE AVAILABLE AND I WILL GLADLY ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE.

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